Quito: The city in the clouds
Quito is not your everyday destination. It's edgy,
scary and a tiny bit dangerous because of the constant threat of earthquakes and
volcanic eruptions (Quito is located at the base of an active volcano).
On the other hand, Quito is fresh, exciting, foreign and beautiful, making Quito
a perfect junket for the adventurous American tourist. The trick is to see
the sites of Quito without getting hurt or robbed.
A typical Quito Street
Remember, Ecuador has a average income of only about $5 per
day, and a visit to Quito transports you into a world where you are a
relative-multimillionaire, a tycoon with mucho spending power who can live like
a King in Quito.
Even the most modest USA income is enough to afford a fancy
hotel suite with a butler (only $100 per day), and a dedicated English-speaking
chauffer with a "Quito Limo" (a new SUV), for only $10 per hour. The
average American visitor to Quito is instantly mega-rich by Ecuadorian
standards, which makes shopping a major activity with unbelievable bargains ,
especially hand-woven Panama hats from Montichristi, nice watercolor by talented
artists, super-cheap silver jewelry and leather goods.
Hand-painted masterpieces in Quito costs
less than $20
Compared to the costal cities in Ecuador (where an American
could not walk a block without constant harassment from thieves and beggars),
Quito has many "safe" areas (Independence Square, Artisan Market, the Mariscal
district) with armed guards to make you feel even safer.
The local Quito cab drivers lament of the "typical"
American tourist who locks-down in their hotel, only venturing forth to go to
the nearby Galapagos Islands or an excursion to Machu Picchu.
Like and city, Quito can be dangerous if you fail to take
common-sense precautions. For $10 per hour you should hire an
English-speaking guide and take him with you everywhere you go. Always get your
guide directly from your hotel concierge and pay on your hotel tab, so there is
a record of your excursion.
Switzerland with Palm Trees
In the USA, everyone is in-awe of Denver, the "mile high"
city on the front-range of the Rocky Mountains, where the air is thin and crisp,
and it's hard to imagine that Quito is a city that is two-miles high (Quito is a
city of mountains and valleys, with over 1,000 feet in variation).
Situated at a "average" altitude of 9,300 feet above sea level, Quito is the
second highest national capital in the world, beat only by La Paz in Bolivia.
Just like Mexico City, Quito is a sprawling city spread out
over an area of over 100 square miles, but Quito is nestled high in the Andes
and is often called the "City of Clouds".
More than two million of Ecuador's population lives in the Quito area, spread
out over an expansive area, so Quito never feels crowded or urban.
Pride and Prejudice in Ecuador
Evidently, some Ecuadorians are bigoted and many news reports say that
Ecuadorian employers routinely advertise for job applicants who have a "good
appearance," a Ecuadorian euphemism for non-Negro characteristics. It is also
reported that landlords will openly reject applications from Blacks and that the
Black communities do not receive the same share of government support as Latino
areas.
The bizarre Mama Negra celebration is held each November where Ecuadorian men
put on blackface and dress up like Black Women. Mama Negra was originally
a pagan celebration dating back to the 1531 Spanish Conquest, but the locals of
Quito have not problem with this strange ritual.
Quito Factoids
-
Quito has over two million residents, spread out over
100 square miles.
-
Quito has a "safe" tourist area (the Mariscal
district), but beware of the suburbs where you will find many poor and
indigent residents, with a high poverty, crime and unemployment rate.
-
The climate in Quito is always cool (about 70 degrees
in the afternoon and 50 degrees at night) with uniform sunrise about 6:00 AM
and sunset at 6:00 PM all year round.
-
Ecuador uses the U.S. Dollar, but has 50 cent coins.
They converted to dollars in 1999 in an effort to stamp-out their 400%
yearly inflation.
-
Quito is one of the most seismic cities in the world,
with nearly active volcanoes and frequent earthquakes.
Beware that Ecuador uses huge and worthless 50 cent coins
which have zero value for currency exchange, and they bundle them in $5 and $10
rolls, hoping that tourists will accept them for change from U.S. dollars.
Make sure to spend them before you leave Ecuador.
Ecuador 50 cent coins
When you arrive at the Quito airport you become immediately
aware of the high
altitude as your lungs stress for oxygen. You should expert to spend a day
at leisure while your body adjusts to the high altitude.
The Quito airport -
elevation 9,000 feet above sea level
Quito is located on the east slope of Pichincha volcano
which rises to an astounding 16,000 feet above sea level. They have a
scenic cable car where you can ride to the top for breathtaking views of Quito.
The Pichincha volcano
Quito has a history of seismic activity with almost daily
earthquakes and some major tremors, with the largest earthquake in 1797
which killed over 40,000 people. More recently, Ecuador suffered a
magnitude 7 earthquake in 1987 with an epicenter only 50 miles from Quito,
killing over 1,000 people.
There are also active volcano's in the Quito area, with the
Sangay volcano erupting in December of 2006. In August 2006, the
Tungurahua volcano erupted, killing more than 100 people.
The 1999 the explosive eruption of the 16,000 foot high
Guagua Pichincha Volcano showered Quito with ash, causing the Quito airport to
close. This eruption was totally unexpected and you need to be warned that
seismic activity is always a threat in the Ecuador highlands.
Quito is an amazing city, a mix of Switzerland with palm
trees, rolling hills and lush valleys, nestled in the high clouds of the Andes
mountains. If you like the green lush hillsides of a Swiss village, Quito
is perfect. Most of the Western American mountain range from Alaska to
Patagonia is rugged and rocky, but the Andes near Quito capture the condensation
from the Amazon basin, creating Quito's reputation of being a "city in the
clouds".
Getting to Quito
Air fares vary widely between high season (approximately
Thanksgiving to New Years) and the low period is rainy season from June to
September. It's a great ride to Quito, almost straight south, and it's in
the same time zone, sop there is no jet lag. On a clear day you can
clearly see the shores of communist Cuba and witness giant ships passing through
the Panama canal.
Quito is close by, only a four and a half hour plane ride
from Miami, with amazing scenery from the air. You can pass the whole time
looking out over Cuba, Jamaica, Panama City and the Panama Canal, and the
breathtaking western range of the Andes mountains of Columbia.
Getting around in Quito
It's not a good idea to rent a car in Quito for several
reasons:
-
The major US car rental agencies have no on-site
facility, and their offices are shabby, run-down and frightening.
-
The city traffic in Quito is reckless and
unpredictable, with drivers on the wrong side of the roads and people
driving on the sidewalks.
Remember, you can hire an English-speaking driver from your
hotel for as little as $10 per hour.
Hotels in Quito
There are many nice hotels in Quito, but you may want to
stay with recognized USA brand hotels:
-
Quito Hinton - Located near the Mariscal
district, the Hilton offers cheap and safe accommodations.
-
Quito Marriott - About $120-$160 per night, it's
very comfortable with in-room internet and an amazing breakfast buffet.
-
Radisson Quito - The Radisson is well-appointed
and comfortable, with rates under $100 per night.
 |
If you want the safety and comfort of a well-known US hotel, try the
Quito Marriott.
It's a safe haven for tourists exploring the Galapagos and you can
hire a nice car with an English-speaking driver for only $15 per hour. |
Poverty is everywhere in Quito, and its not uncommon to see blind and
crippled beggars on the streets, drug addicts "tripping", and the omnipresent
whores and pickpockets (called "Ladrones").
Insider Tip! - For a fun diversion, grab
your guide and get a seat near Independence Square or San Francisco square and
watch the pickpockets.
 |
The Quito pickpockets can spot an American tourist at 100 yards and
it's fun to watch them descend (they work in teams) upon their prey.
Once you see how they work, you can join in the fun.
Just buy a cheap wallet for $3 and allow it to be stolen from your pants pocket. |
Most of the beggars are harmless and many will entertain you whenever they
can. At street corners, be prepared to tip the local gymnasts who will do
handstand in front of your car for 25 cents, and be prepared to have people
knock on the window of your car, trying to sell you something at every street
corner.
It’s hard not to be moved by the abject poverty, and we recommend that you carry
a large roll of dollar bills coins to hand-out to the poor. Many of the street
corner vendors earn less than $3 per day and it’s wonderful to watch their face light-up when you hand them a
whole dollar! Remember, the beggars and street vendors can be very
aggressive, and it often easier to just give them a dollar to avoid confrontations.
A blind guitar player
Once you get outside of the tourist area you can see the slums of Quito and
start to appreciate the desperation of some of these people. The poverty is
appalling.
Dining in Quito
The main American hotels (Marriott, Hilton and Radisson) offer excellent
American style food, but the truly adventurous will set forth in search of
authentic Ecuadorian foods. Ecuadorian foods are heavy on many types of
corn, avocado and beans and the favorite meats include pork and Cuy (pronounced
"coo-ee", their famous roasted Guinea pigs. They are also famous for their Great potato soups,
flavored with cheese, pork skin and other seasonings.
 |
Mama Clorinda (www.mamaclorinda.cjb.net)
is by far the best restaurant to get genuine Ecuadorian foods in Quito,
both because it's safely located, inexpensive, and most of all,
authentic.
They have an armed guard at the door, and you can be perfectly safe
eating there, but it's best to dine in the later afternoon, in daylight.
The most expensive item is the roasted guinea pig at $15. |
You owe it to yourself to try the Cuy (roasted guinea pig). In our
opinion, The Guinea pigs in Quito are among the best edible rodents anywhere in
the Americas.
You can also find the ubiquitous Burger King, Baskin-Robbins ice cream and
McDonalds, which has customized their menu for Ecuadorian tastes, dumping
Avocados on almost everything.
The Ecuadorians love corn, in dozens of varieties and
styles. Make sure to try the "tostada", roasted corn pops that are served
in most local restaurants.
The Mariscal district is a day-safe area to walk, lines
with small shops, restaurants and youth hostels. The main avenue, Reyna
Victoria street (walking distance from the Marriott), is a center for college
kids, with many youth hostels lining the busy street.
Safety in Quito
Like any large city in South America, Quito has their share
of robbers and pickpockets. American passports and expansive watches are
their favorites and anything valuable should be locked in your hotel room safe
before exploring Quito.
Never, ever get near a public demonstration. Ecuador
has a history of overthrown democratically elected presidents through protesting
and civil unrest. In South America in general, American have been known to
be shot and kidnapped just for being in the area of civil unrest and you should
always remember that all protests are potential powder kegs.
All governments in South America can be unstable, and you should always have
an exit strategy in-place, including Quito. The U.S. Embassy in Quito,
Ecuador is located at 12 de Octubre and Patria (Phone: 593-2-560-401) and you
should locate it on your Quito map in case you have to walk to the US embassy.
Ecuador has a long history of civil unrest, with military coups, assignations
and riots. While Ecuador is stable in 2007, things can change quickly and
you need to be prepared for a quick getaway in case of riots, strikes,
earthquakes or volcanic eruptions.
Next, let's look at the most popular tourist activities for Ecuador and
Quito.
Things to see and do near Quito
There are several must-see things near Quito:
-
Visit the true equator (The Inti Nan museum)
-
Go to Montichristi for Panama hats
-
Explore the natural wonders of the Andes
-
Indulge in world-class shopping bargains
-
Take an air shuttle to the Galapagos Islands
Let's start with the natural wonders of the Quito area.
Quito Natural Wonders
Nearby to Quito is the Cotopaxi volcano which towers over 19,000 feet, the
world's highest active volcano, which also has the distinction of being near the
equator, the highest point from the center of the earth. The countryside
near Quito is gorgeous with beautiful hills and valleys as far as the eye can
see.
Many American backpackers head out into the wilderness for solace and
exploration, but it's not for the faint of heart.
(Note: Dozens of American have disappeared in Ecuador, vanishing without a
trace, so solo hiking may not be such a great idea). There are many reputable
outdoors excision vendors where you can safely explore the wonders of the Amazon
basin and the Andes.
Visit the Equator near Quito
There are two "parks" at the equator, the "true equator at
the Inti Nan museum" and the "middle of the world monument", a park that stands
about 650 feet to the south of the true equator. It was originally mapped
by the French, and found to be off after the advent of global positioning
systems.
The equator monument is wrong, about 650
feet south of the true equator
The middle of the world theme park has some interesting museums, but don't miss the "real"
equator at the Inti Nan museum, just 650 feet to the north.
The Inti Nan
museum is a nice little tourist trap, replete with guides to show you native
buildings, some live llamas, a dead goat for photo ops, and a real human shrunken head.
Interestingly, Ecuador has a history of many centuries of head shrinking and
Ecuadorian soldiers were said to have shrunk the heads of dead Peruvians during
the recent 1995 Cenepa War.
Standing on the true
equator at the Inti Nan museum
The guide at the Inti Nan
museum was full of hogwash, claiming that the exact point of the equator was
magical, fascinating for gullible kids, but more like a carnival sideshow for
adults. The guide at the Inti Nan museum claimed:
-
That people weigh one kilo less when
standing on the exact equator
-
That people are equal in strength on the
equator
-
That you can balance a raw egg on a nail
head, but only on the equator
-
And, or course, a "proof" that water
vortexes clockwise south of the equator and circles
counter-clockwise north of the equator.
Here is our research on the question about whether
water circles clockwise in the southern hemisphere?
They also let you try-out a native Ecuadorian Indian blow-darts
and try your luck at shooting a dart at a cactus leaf.
They also have a gross dead stuffed goat that you can pose
with for a priceless memento of your visit to the true equator.
Get your photo with the dead stuffed goat
In sum, the Inti Nan museum is very cheesy, but it's cheap, on the true equator and
lots of fun.
Seeing the landmarks of Quito
The winged Virgin Mary monument at the top of Panecillo hill is marred by
robbers and pickpockets, and you should always hire an English speaking cab
driver if you want to visit the summit. Beware of the numerous robbers and
pickpockets that hang-out at the parking area for the statue.
The view from Panecillo hill is amazing, an almost unworldly spectacle of
amazing mountains and lush green valleys. very reminiscent of Switzerland.
The Cathedral of La Basílica in Quito
The main cathedral of Quito is La Basílica. It was built in the 1990's
so it's not old, but the unique neoclassical architecture and the Galapagos turtle gargoyles are unique in all the
world.
Independence Square in Quito
Independence Square is the Ecuadorian equivalent of the Capital mall, a very
clean and impressive open space within the city. It's flanked by the
presidential palace, city hall and a neoclassical cathedral, but the central
monument is the most compelling feature of Independence Square. If you
like churches, ask your guide to take to to see the Sagrario Church and the
ancient-looking La Compañía Church, which was built in 1605, more than 400 years
ago.
At the base of the monument we find two symbolic animals, a lion and a
condor. The condor is a national symbol in Ecuador and you will see the
condor displayed in many forms and stylized ways. This is the bronze
condor at the base of the monument.
We also see the lion, the symbol of Spain, looking over her shoulder as she
is being banished. She is looking up directly at the statue at the top of
the monument which represents Ecuadorian independence.
You can see the native Inca and other tribal people because they stand-out in
the Quito crowds, with the women's habit of wearing man-like hats and their
colorful alpaca clothing.
San Francisco Square in Quito is quite unremarkable, but it's one of te main
tourist stops in Quito and worth a brief visit.
San Francisco Square in Quito
Now, let's take a look at the real pastime in Quito, the great shopping.
Shopping in Quito
Ecuador is known for world-class shopping, and there are many choices from
open-air handicraft markets to American style malls in North Quito. There
are bargains galore in Quito and the surrounding areas, mainly alpaca goods
(scarves, sweaters and blankets), hand-woven Panama hats, inexpensive silver,
Tagua ivory and a wealth of vendors selling fake designer goods (Rolex watches,
Gucci purses, Ray Ban sunglasses).
Make sure to bring some collapsible luggage bags to hold all of your
treasures.
The Quito markets have an amazing wealth of hand-crafted silver jewelry.
However, we suspected that some of the jewelry was hand crafted in Indonesia.
A wealth of cheap silver in Quito markets
For a real treat, visit the local general stores (but only with your guide,
never alone). It's fun to look at their goods and watch the locals
bargain.
A genuine Ecuadorian General Store
For real native handicrafts, they also have outstanding watercolor and oil
art in the markets, hand-woven alpaca scarves and blankets, and hand-woven
Montichristi Panama hats. Don't buy the super-mas fino Panama Hats in Quito
where they can cost upwards of $400. These amazing super-fine woven hats
are far cheaper at their source in Montichristi (they can take months to weave
with strands as fine as thread).
Also, if you know what you are doing, buying antiques and antiquities can be
very rewarding. Many vendors offer very authentic-looking "muy antigua"
Inca stone and pottery objects and claim that they are over a thousand years
old, but you need to be careful about reproductions and always check the export
laws for removing any items that may be of historical significance.
In sum, a visit to Quito is an amazing adventure, provided that you follow
our simple guidelines and safety precautions.
 |
This is an excerpt from the book
South America Insider Adventures by Rampant TechPress.
This is the definitive guide for the U.S. American traveler who seeks
to safely explore South America. You can order it directly from
the publisher and save over 30% at
this link. |
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